This extra strong India Pale Ale (IPA) is chock full of American hoppy goodness! Its formidable malt backbone provides some semblance of balance, but the emphasis is on the wonderfully integrated flavors and aromas from the late hop additions. To purchase this kit, click here.
Original Gravity 1.078
Final Gravity 1.020
Alcohol Content 7.2%
8 lb. Alexander’s Pale Malt Extract
2 lb. Munton & Fison Light Dried Malt Extract
½ lb. Munton & Fison Carapils Malt 20° L
½ lb. Briess Crystal Malt 40° L
½ lb. Dingemans Caramunich Malt 48° L
1 oz. Warrior Hop Pellets (Bittering)
1 oz. Chinook Hop Pellets (Flavoring)
½ oz. Apollo Hop Pellets (Flavoring)
1 oz. Apollo Hop Pellets (Finishing)
½ oz. Chinook Hop Pellets (Finishing)
½ oz. Chinook Hop Pellets (Dry Hop)
½ oz. Apollo Hop Pellets (Dry Hop)
Wyeast # 1272 XL American Ale II
A few hours before you begin to brew, prepare your liquid yeast according to the package instructions. We assume that you are familiar with basic homebrewing techniques, so these procedures are abbreviated.
1. Divide the cracked grains among 3 of the muslin bags (½ pound per bag) and add them to your pot along with up to 2½ gallons of cold water (make sure you have sufficient head space to avoid boilovers). Heat slowly.
2. Steep the grains in hot water (about 145º – 160ºF) to extract flavor and color – do not allow to boil. After about 30 minutes, remove the grain bags and then bring the water to a boil.
3. Remove the pot from the heat and add the cans (but not the bags) of malt extract. Keep the pot off the burner and stir until the malt extract is completely dissolved.
4. Put the pot back on the burner and bring it to a boil. Once boiling, place the bittering hops into muslin bags (no more than 1 oz. per bag), add them to the pot, and set your timer for 1 hour. Keep an eye on the pot to avoid boil-overs.
5. After 40 minutes of boiling, remove the pot from the heat (you do not have to stop the timer) and add the two bags of dried malt extract. Keep the kettle off the heat and stir until the extract is completely dissolved, then bring back to a boil.
6. After 50 minutes of boiling, add each of the flavoring hops (use 2 muslin bags, 1 oz. each). Also add ½ teaspoon of Irish moss (or 1 Whirlfloc tablet) to help clarify your beer (optional).
7. After 55 minutes of boiling, add each of the finishing hops (use 2 muslin bags).
8. After 60 minutes of boiling, turn off the heat. Put a lid on your pot and cool it in an ice bath (use your sink) for about 30 minutes. Remove the hop bags from the pot.
9. Pour 2 gallons of cold water into your sanitized fermenter, add the cooled wort (the stuff in your pot), and top up with additional water to 5 gallons. Aerate the wort with vigorous stirring, rocking the fermenter, etc.
10. Make sure the wort is below 80°F before adding yeast. Take a hydrometer reading if desired. Add the yeast.
11. Store the fermenter where the temperature will be a fairly constant 65° – 70°F. Once the vigorous phase of fermentation is complete (typically 4 to 5 days), add the “dry hops.” Allow the dry hops to soak for at least a few days. Active fermentation may take only a few days, or it can last up to 2 weeks. A hydrometer reading is a great way to determine when the fermentation is done. Keep the beer in the primary fermenter until active fermentation is complete (no signs of active fermentation for the last 2 to 3 days).
12. When ready to bottle, siphon beer into your sanitized bottling bucket, leaving sediment behind. Boil the priming sugar in 1-2 cups of water for a few minutes, gently stir into the beer, and bottle as usual.