This American-style barley wine is strong, rich, and moderately bitter. With 50% more malt extract than our average beer kit, this barley wine features complex malt flavors, assertive hop character and the noticeable presence of warming alcohol. As with most barley wines, ours will improve with age for at least two years. To purchase this kit, click here.


Original Gravity 1.095
Final Gravity 1.022
Alcohol Content 9.1%


12 lb. Alexander’s Pale Malt Extract
½ lb. Munton’s Carapils Malt 20° L
½ lb. Briess Crystal Malt 120° L
½ lb. Briess Crystal Malt 40° L

1 oz. Warrior Hop Pellets (Bittering 1)
½ oz. Amarillo Hop Pellets (Bittering 2)
1 oz. Cascade Hop Pellets (Flavoring 1)
½ oz. Amarillo Hop Pellets (Flavoring 2)
1 oz. Cascade Hop Pellets (Finishing)

Wyeast # 1056 XL American Ale Yeast



A few hours before you begin to brew, prepare your liquid yeast according to the package instructions. We assume that you are familiar with basic homebrewing techniques, so these procedures are abbreviated.

1. Divide the cracked grains between 3 of the muslin bags (about ½ pound per bag) and add them to your brew kettle along with up to 2 gallons of cold water (keep enough head space to avoid boil-overs). Heat slowly.

2. Steep the grains in hot water (about 145° – 160°F) to extract flavor and color – do not allow to boil. After about 30 minutes, remove the grain bags and then bring the water to a boil.

3. Remove the pot from the heat and add one of the cans of malt extract. Do not add the other two cans at this time. Keep the kettle off the burner and stir until the malt extract is completely dissolved.

4. Put the pot back on the burner and bring it to a boil. Once boiling, place bittering hops into muslin bags (no more than 1 oz. per bag), add them to the pot, and set your timer to boil for 75 minutes. Keep an eye on the pot to avoid boil-overs.

5. After 55 minutes of boiling, remove the pot from the heat (you do not have to stop the timer) and add the remaining cans of malt extract syrup. Keep the kettle off the burner and stir until the syrup is completely dissolved. Bring back to a boil.

6. After 60 minutes of boiling, add ½ teaspoon of Irish moss, or 1 Whirlfloc tablet, to help clarify your beer (optional).

7. After 65 minutes of boiling, add the flavoring hops (in muslin bags).

8. After 73 minutes of boiling, add the finishing hops (in a muslin bag) and boil for 2 more minutes.

9. After 75 minutes of boiling, turn off the heat. Put a lid on your pot and cool it in an ice bath (use your sink) for about 30 minutes. Remove the hop bags from the kettle.

10. Pour 1½ gallons of cold water into your sanitized fermenter, add the cooled wort (the stuff in your pot), and top up with additional water to 5 gallons. Aerate the wort with vigorous stirring, rocking the fermenter, etc.

11. Make sure the wort is below 80°F before adding yeast. Take a hydrometer reading if desired. Add the yeast to the wort.

12. Store the fermenter where the temperature will be a fairly constant 65° – 70°F. Active fermentation may take only a few days, or it can last up to 2 weeks. A hydrometer reading is a great way to determine when the fermentation is done. Keep the beer in the primary fermenter until active fermentation is done (no signs of active fermentation for the last 2-3 days).

13. This beer may benefit from a secondary fermentation. This extended aging should be done in a glass carboy for an additional 2 to 8 weeks before bottling (optional).

14. When ready to bottle, siphon beer into your sanitized bottling bucket, leaving sediment behind. Boil the priming sugar in 1-2 cups of water for a few minutes, gently stir into the beer, and bottle as usual.