Single Hop IPA
This is the perfect kit for experimenting with new hop varieties, or for accentuating the unique properties of your favorite one. There is enough malt to balance the beer, but it will never interfere with your total immersion in hoppy goodness!
Statistics
Original Gravity 1.077
Final Gravity 1.019
Alcohol Content 7.5%
Ingredients
9.9 lb. Briess Golden Light Liquid Malt Extract
½ lb. Briess Crystal Malt* 120° L
¼ lb. Briess Victory Malt*
14–17 AAU Hops (Bittering)
1 oz. Hops (Flavoring 1)
1 oz. Hops (Flavoring 2)
1 oz. Hops (Finishing 1)
1 oz. Hops (Finishing 2)
1 oz. Hops (Finishing 3)
1 oz. Hops (Dry Hop)
Danstar Nottingham Ale Yeast
10 Muslin Bags
5 oz Priming Sugar (for bottling)
* The malted grains are all crushed together in the clear plastic bag.
Procedure
A few hours before you begin to brew, prepare your liquid yeast according to the package instructions. We assume that you are familiar with basic homebrewing techniques, so these procedures are abbreviated.
1. Divide the cracked grains among 2 of the muslin bags (similar amount per bag) and add them to your brew kettle along with up to 2 gallons of cold water. Heat slowly.
2. Steep the grains in hot water (about 145°–160°F) to extract flavor and color – do not allow to boil. After about 30 minutes, remove the grain bags and then bring the water to a boil.
3. Remove the pot from the heat and add 3.3 lbs of liquid malt extract. Do not add the other 2 cans of extract at this time. Keep the kettle off the burner and stir until the malt extract is completely dissolved.
4. Put the pot back on the burner and bring to a boil. Once boiling, place bittering hops in 1or 2 muslin bags (no more than 1 oz. per bag), add them to the pot, and set your timer for 1 hour. Keep an eye on the pot to avoid boil-overs.
5. After 40 minutes of boiling, add flavoring hops 1 (in a muslin bag). Remove the pot from the heat (you do not have to stop the timer) and add the other 2 cans of liquid malt extract. Keep the kettle off the heat and stir until the extract is completely dissolved, then bring back to a boil.
6. After 45 minutes of boiling. You may also ½ teaspoon of Irish moss, or 1 Whirlfloc tablet, to help clarify beer (optional).
7. After 50 minutes of boiling, add flavoring hops 2 (in a muslin bag).
8. After 55 minutes of boiling, add finishing hops 1 (in a muslin bag).
9. After 58 minutes of boiling, add finishing hops 2 (in a muslin bag).
10. After 60 minutes of boiling, add finishing hops 3 (in a muslin bag) and turn off the heat. Put a lid on your pot and cool it in an ice bath (use your sink) for about 30 minutes.
11. Pour 1 gallon of cold water into your sanitized fermenter, remove the hop bags from the kettle and add the cooled wort (the stuff in your pot), and top up with additional water to 5 gallons. Aerate the wort with vigorous stirring, rocking the fermenter, etc.
12. Make sure the wort is below 80°F before adding yeast. Take a hydrometer reading if desired. Add the yeast to the wort.
13. Store the fermenter where the temperature will be a fairly constant 65°–70°F.
14. After 4 days of fermentation carefully add the dry hops. If you are using a muslin or nylon bag, be sure to sanitize it first in some boiling water. If not, the hops will settle to the bottom of the fermenter. Leave the hops in the beer for at least 5 days before you bottle or transfer the beer.
15. Active fermentation may take only a few days, or it can last up to 2 weeks. A hydrometer reading is a great way to determine when the fermentation is done. Keep the beer in the primary fermenter for two weeks until active fermentation is done (no signs of active fermentation for the last 2–3 days), and the hops have been in the beer for at least 5 days.
16. When ready to bottle, siphon beer into your sanitized bottling bucket, leaving sediment behind. Boil the priming sugar in 1–2 cups of water for a few minutes, gently stir into the beer, and bottle as usual.